Lawn Care & Maintenance

Watering

The more established your turf the less water you need to apply. This means that over the first couple of months you will gradually reduce both the amount of times you water and how long you water.
Lawns in Perth need to get 30-40mm per week during the dry months.

A simple way to check this is to spread some pressure pack caps (if you can't get catch cups) randomly over your lawn. Time how long it takes to catch e.g. 15mm of water. Once this is known you can then set your controller to run so as to deliver the correct amount of water to your lawn. For instance 10mm caught in 10minutes, = 15mm in 15minutes, = 2x 15 minute applications per station, per week, to receive 30mm of water. Being aware of mains pressure changes this test should be done at around the time you would normally be watering. If the amount of water in the cups varies too much an audit of the system should take place so as to fix discrepancies.

Lawn Doctor can assist with this. Sir Walter Premium Lawn Turf can survive and thrive on the required two watering days however it is important to ensure that the watering system you are using is performing correctly. Most of the queries we get from turf owners are because of dry areas in their turf. This always shows up after the first dry spell and heat wave of the season and is usually caused by the following:
1. A faulty reticulation system, with blocked sprinklers or low pressure being the most
common problems. In new sub divisions the amount of pressure in your system can also change depending on how many new houses are being added to the same mains.
2. The usage of Landscape mixes during soil preparation (see preparation and laying guide). After winter they dry out and become anti wetting. This then causes the lawn itself to dry out as its roots have only been living in the landscape mix and have not penetrated
any deeper.

Note: The poor humble lawn beetle or black beetle is often blamed for these conditions. To check if in the unlikely circumstance you do have an infestation you can stick your hose into the lawn and flood the area of about a metre square. If you get more than 20 adult beetles or grubs floating to the top then yes you do have an infestation and a substance can be used to eradicate the problem. Usually though you won’t and any less than the above amount can actually be beneficial to your lawn as they burrow through the soil, acting as an
organic aerator.

J (Ocean Reef)
Very happy, one area died back slightly (went away for 2 weeks – lack of water) looking good now – considering more for front yard in the future.

Fertilising

Fertilising is an important part to get right, first check by lifting the corner of a couple of rolls to see if your turf has developed a root system, then apply only small amounts of fertiliser every couple of weeks until the turf
is established. The use of large amounts of fertiliser at once will only result in nutrient leaching and possible damage to the turf.

Sir Walter Premium Turf requires less fertiliser than couch grass varieties to maintain a beautiful colour, especially less nitrogen. Newly planted lawn comes without a root system and needs a balanced starter food source. Fertiliser companies have yet to produce a specialised buffalo lawn food in WA. Lawn Doctor has developed special mixes with additional trace elements to fulfill this demand.

Fertiliser should be spread at a rate of no more than 2kg (a standard 2 litre ice cream container) per 100m² per application. Sir Walter should only be fertilised when a loss of colour or vitality is noticeable. The most accurate way to spread fertiliser is with a “Scotts” Handie Green Spreader. These are available from Lawn Doctor, along with the handy pails of specialised buffalo fertiliser.

NOTE: The use of large amounts of fertiliser at once will only result in nutrient leaching, excessive growth and is a waste of money.

Mowing - Recommended Cutting Heights and Frequencies

Mowing should commence once the turf has established a root system and is held to the soil. Don’t leave it too long before you mow for the first time, as you will only scalp the turf. Establishment times can vary from 4 – 6 weeks in winter, to 2-3 weeks in summer. Your choice of cutting height can enhance the positive growing characteristics, or on the other hand, diminish the appearance and resilience of the turf. Rule of thumb is to only remove one third of leaf at any one time. Lawn Doctor Turf Farms recommend a cutting height of 20-25mm in summer, mowing every 2 weeks and 25-30mm in winter, mowing every 4 weeks. If you have planted the turf in an area which has considerable shade cover then your mowing height will need to be quite high!

The benefits of following these guidelines are as follows:

• Lawn retains that luxurious look and feel which not only looks good but feels good at the same time. More frequent cutting allows for only one third of the leaf to be removed, which assists the plant to retain the majority of water and nutrient stored in its leaves, thus enabling the turf to survive quite happily on just two waterings per week.
• A higher cut ensures that the turf is not scalped, which in turn protects the stems from direct sunlight and heat stress.
• When stems are scalped, new ones grow to cover and protect the damaged ones. This has been a major cause for thatching in the past.
• Allowing the leaf to remain longer also promotes a deeper root system. Scientific research shows a direct correlation between the two. This is being promoted worldwide to conserve water. In cooler months, it is critical to leave as much of the leaf intact as possible after mowing, as the reduced sunlight and lower temperatures cause the photosynthesis process to slow down, therefore restricting the plant’s ability to produce food. Once too much leaf has been removed, the turf will struggle to recover and will simply tend to go dormant until the weather warms up again. In this weakened state, the turf will damage easily, which in turn will allow unwanted weeds to establish themselves.
• The downside for Lawnmowing contractors is a non performing lawn which won’t need cutting again until spring which equals lost income when you really need it; and an unhappy customer who has paid a lot of money for a quality lawn!

By following these simple instructions you should be well on the way to having the best looking lawn in the street.

All Buffalo Maintenance

Lawn Doctor now offers a comprehensive maintenance package for your lawn. This ensures that you will never have to lift a finger to get the best lawn in the street 365 days a year. This service does not just include mowing, fertilising and spraying by our qualified turf managers; it also ensures that we will act on any problem areas within your turf, before it becomes a major issue. We do this by having our in house consultancy service who will set and maintain your reticulation, check your soil PH and do a leaf analysis and if necessary mix up a fertiliser that is custom made for your lawn. Think of it as the same as having your pool fully maintained; now you can have the same service for your lawn.

Trouble Shooting For Soft Leaf Buffalos       

Soft leaf buffalo lawns will survive happily on two waterings per week once they are established. There are
a number of issues to consider in their establishment and long term maintenance. Lawn Doctor Turf Farms
recommend the following:

• New lawns should be mowed as soon as the roots are down, e.g. once the lawn cannot be easily lifted. This will take about two (2) weeks in summer and up to six (6) weeks in winter.

• Depending on the colour after the first cut it may be necessary to apply a fertiliser such as Baileys Nu Lawn which is high in Phosphate and promotes root development. Nu Lawn is available from Knights Garden & Pet Supplies, Prindiville Drive, Wangara; or most City Farmers stores.
• New lawns tend to need more fertiliser in the first 12-18 months until they are fully established. Fertilise little and often; when lawn starts to lose colour and vigour. Once a lawn goes dormant in winter, it is difficult to stimulate growth and colour. Fertilise after mowing and water in well immediately.
• Some lawns can be best treated with a foliar (liquid) spray, with the nutrients taken up through the leaves. In fact, this is the best application method for iron and manganese. WARNING: Any liquid or granular fertiliser containing iron will stain paving if not cleaned off straight away. Also beware of “walking it off” the treated areas, so granules should be applied to a dry lawn and when spraying, start on the far side of the lawn and work your way towards the exit point.

• A common problem with new lawns in late spring and early summer is the production of seed heads. These growths are woody and tough, and the mower tends to leave a lot behind, so a sharp machine is essential. Mature lawns which are well looked after seed a lot less.
• Seed heads are also caused by stress – either lack of water and/or nutrients. To determine the cause, check the soil moisture content – dry soil is a tell tale sign – compare with an area where there are no seed heads, often in shaded areas where the evaporation rate is less.
• Insufficient nutrient levels, particularly trace elements such as iron & manganese, can cause the lawn to produce excessive seed heads. Soils lacking in trace elements can prevent the plant from taking up other nutrients such as Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium, so simply pouring more fertiliser on will not solve the problem.

• If you suspect the soil is tending dry, firstly check that all sprinklers are covering properly (use catch cups to check). New lawns will need more water than mature lawns until the root system is established, so watering time should be about 20 minutes per station (See Watering guidelines below). Remember, the soil moisture content is the key.
• A sure sign of lack of water is when the lawn starts to turn a bluey colour, the leaves start to fold up (like a book), and then the ends become crispy. The leaves will quickly turn brown after that.
• If all sprinklers are working, open up the soil to a depth of 150 mm (6 inches) with a garden fork or spade, so that you can see & feel the soil. You will be able to see whether the soil is moist or dry and crumbling – compare with an area where the lawn is healthy & lush.
• Black beetles are blamed for a lot of dry spots, however they usually only damage an already weakened lawn. The larvae eat the lawn roots, starving the lawn of nutrients. To check whether you have an infestation (more than 20 beetles per m2), flood the affected area with a hose and any beetles in the soil will come to the surface.

• Watering should always be done early in the morning, at sunrise, never in the evening after sunset. Night watering is wasteful as lawns tend to go dormant and do not take up the water. Night watering also promotes fungal problems, such as Spring Dead Spot and Dollar Spot, as it increases humidity which is ideal for fungal growth.
• Water once per day on your designated watering days for between 15 – 20 minutes per station, depending on water pressure and sprinkler configuration. Remember, gear drive and rotator type sprinklers need to be left on for a lot longer, some up to 45 minutes per station, before they deliver the same amount of water as conventional popups. Sub surface irrigation also requires a different watering time – you should check with the distributors of these products for the recommended watering times.

• We recommend the REGULAR use of soil wetting agents (liquid or granular) to allow water to penetrate the surface; otherwise it will run off and be wasted. Wetting agents also help trap water in the root zone, as it often runs straight through our sandy soils.
• Wetting agents do break down, so should be re-applied 3-4 times over spring and summer, particularly in our sandy, hydrophobic soils. It may be necessary to apply wetting agent 2-3 times over a 4-6 week period initially to treat very dry soils.
• Wetting agent should be watered in well for best effect – it froths up when hosed in, which indicates that it has become soluble.

• A lot of Perth’s soils tend towards alkalinity, particularly in coastal areas or where there are high concentrations of limestone. Buffalo lawns will tolerate alkaline conditions; however they do reach a point where growth becomes inhibited. You can use a pool tester kit to check pH – mix some soil in distilled water and carry out a simple test. Once again, an acidic fertiliser supplemented by iron and manganese will help correct the pH level.