Lawn Care

There are many steps which can be taken in caring for your lawn:

Watering Your Lawn

The more established your turf the less water you need to apply. This means that over the first couple of months you will gradually reduce both the amount of times you water and how long you water.
Lawns in Perth need to get 30-40mm per week during the dry months.

A simple way to check this is to spread some pressure pack caps (if you can't get catch cups) randomly over your lawn. Time how long it takes to catch e.g. 15mm of water. Once this is known you can then set your controller to run so as to deliver the correct amount of water to your lawn. For instance 10mm caught in 20 minutes, = 15mm in 30 minutes, = 2x 30 minute applications per station, per week, to receive 30mm of water. Being aware of mains pressure changes this test should be done at around the time you would normally be watering. If the amount of water in the cups varies too much an audit of the system should take place so as to fix discrepancies. Lawn Doctor can assist with an audit on your system.

 

Sir Walter Premium Lawn Turf can be maintained on the required two watering days however it is important to ensure that the watering system you are using is performing correctly. Most of the queries we get from turf owners are because of dry areas in their turf. This always shows up after the first dry spell and heat wave of the season (normally December) and is usually caused by the following:

1. A faulty reticulation system, with blocked and or misaligned sprinklers or low pressure being the most common problems. In new sub divisions the amount of pressure in your system can also change depending on how many new houses are being added to the same mains. Also, differant sprinkler types need to be ran for differant times, for example rotating or gear driven sprinklers need 45 minutes to put out 15mls, while a conventional pop up system may only need 10 minutes.

2. When Landscape mixes are not mixed thoroughly with the existing soil (see preparation and laying guide). After winter they can dry out and become anti wetting. This then causes the lawn itself to dry out as its roots have only been living in the landscape mix and have not penetrated
any deeper.

 

 

 

Note: The poor humble lawn beetle or black beetle is often blamed for these conditions. To check if in the unlikely circumstance you do have an infestation you can stick your hose into the lawn and flood the area of about a metre square. If you get more than 20 adult beetles or grubs floating to the top then yes you do have an infestation and a substance can be used to eradicate the problem. Usually though you won’t and any less than the above amount can actually be beneficial to your lawn as they burrow through the soil, acting as an organic aerator.

Fertilising

Fertilising is an important part to get right, first check by lifting the corner of a couple of rolls to see if your turf has developed a root system, then apply only small amounts of fertiliser (Baileys Nu Lawn) every 6 weeks until the turf is established. The use of large amounts of fertiliser at once will only result in nutrient leaching and excessive growth.

Sir Walter Premium Turf requires less fertiliser than couch grass varieties to maintain a beautiful colour, especially less nitrogen. Newly planted lawn comes without a root system and needs a balanced starter food source.Sir Walter has developed a product called Sir Launcher with additional trace elements and water crystals which can be applied when the turf is being layed.

Fertiliser should be spread at a rate of no more than 2kg (a standard 2 litre ice cream container) per 100m² per application. Sir Walter should only be fertilised when a loss of colour or vitality is noticeable. The most accurate way to spread fertiliser is with a “Scotts” Handie Green Spreader. These are available from Lawn Doctor, along with the handy pails of specialised buffalo fertiliser.

NOTE: The use of large amounts of fertiliser at once will only result in nutrient leaching, excessive growth and is a waste of money.
 

Mowing

Mowing - Recommended Cutting Heights and Frequencies

 

Mowing should commence once the turf has established a root system and is held to the soil. Don’t leave it too long before you mow for the first time, as you will only scalp the turf. Establishment times can vary from 4 – 6 weeks in winter, to 2-3 weeks in summer. Your choice of cutting height can enhance the positive growing characteristics, or on the other hand, diminish the appearance and resilience of the turf. Rule of thumb is to only remove one third of leaf at any one time. For mowing Buffalo, Lawn Doctor Turf Farms recommend a cutting height of 20-25mm in summer, mowing every 2 weeks and 25-30mm in winter, mowing every 4 weeks. If you have planted the turf in an area which has considerable shade cover then your mowing height will need to be quite high!

The benefits of following these guidelines are as follows:

• Lawn retains that luxurious look and feel which not only looks good but feels good at the same time. More frequent cutting allows for only one third of the leaf to be removed, which assists the plant to retain the majority of water and nutrient stored in its leaves, thus enabling the turf to survive quite happily on just two waterings per week.
• A higher cut ensures that the turf is not scalped, which in turn protects the stems from direct sunlight and heat stress.
• When stems are scalped, new ones grow to cover and protect the damaged ones. This has been a major cause for thatching in the past.
• Allowing the leaf to remain longer also promotes a deeper root system. Scientific research shows a direct correlation between the two. This is being promoted worldwide to conserve water. In cooler months, it is critical to leave as much of the leaf intact as possible after mowing, as the reduced sunlight and lower temperatures cause the photosynthesis process to slow down, therefore restricting the plant’s ability to produce food. Once too much leaf has been removed, the turf will struggle to recover and will simply tend to go dormant until the weather warms up again. In this weakened state, the turf will damage easily, which in turn will allow unwanted weeds to establish themselves.

For Lawnmowing contractors, adjusting the cutting height of conventional mowers can be a hassle, therefore it is necessary to overcome this problem by having a wind up/down height adjuster fitted to the mower or by using a differant mower for the buffalo lawns.

By following these simple instructions you should be well on the way to having the best looking lawn in the street.

 

Trouble Shooting for Soft Leaf Buffalos

 

Soft leaf buffalo lawns can be maintained on two waterings per week once they are established if they are managed correctly. There are some issues which our expereince has shown to be recurring problems with the succesful management of turf, especially when the turf is under stress during the establishment phase or coming out of winter.

Lawn Doctor Turf Farms recommend the following to ensure your lawn performs as it should:
 

First Cut

• New lawns should be mowed as soon as the roots are down, e.g. once the lawn cannot be easily lifted. This will take about two (2) weeks in summer and up to six (6) weeks in winter.

Fertiliser

• Depending on the colour after the first cut it may be necessary to apply a fertiliser such as Baileys Nu Lawn or Knights Special Mix, both are available from Lawn Doctor at 14 Prindiville Dve Wangara.
• New lawns tend to need more fertiliser in the first 12-18 months until they are fully established. Fertilise little and often; when lawn starts to lose colour and vigour. Once a lawn goes dormant in winter, it is difficult to stimulate growth and colour, so ensure your lawn is fertilised well into Autumn. Fertilise after mowing and water in well immediately.
• Some lawns can be best treated with a foliar (liquid) spray, with the nutrients taken up through the leaves. In fact, this is the best application method for iron and manganese and is an effective way of giving your lawn some colour if the roots have gone dormant in winter due to inadequate nutrient levels.

WARNING: Any liquid or granular fertiliser containing iron will stain paving if not cleaned off straight away. Also beware of “walking it off” the treated areas, so granules should be applied to a dry lawn and when spraying, start on the far side of the lawn and work your way towards the exit point.

 

Seed Heads

• A common problem with new lawns in late spring and early summer is the production of seed heads. These growths are woody and tough, and the mower tends to leave a lot behind, so a sharp machine and regular mowing is essential. Mature lawns which are well looked after seed a lot less.
• Seed heads are also caused by stress – either lack of water and/or nutrients. To determine the cause, check the soil moisture content – dry soil is a tell tale sign – compare with an area where there are no seed heads, often in shaded areas where the evaporation rate is less.
• Insufficient nutrient levels, particularly trace elements such as iron & manganese, can cause the lawn to produce excessive seed heads. Soils lacking in trace elements can prevent the plant from taking up other nutrients such as Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium, so simply pouring more fertiliser on will not solve the problem.
• The problem can be lessened if the lawn is fertilised with a fertiliser that has sufficient amounts of trace elements and iron and manganese such as Knights Special Mix (available from our retail outlet in 14 Prindiville Dve Wangara)  and then given a low mow (not scalped). Most often when the turf grows back after this mow in a couple of days there are noticably less seed heads.

Dry Patches

• If you suspect the soil is tending dry, firstly check that all sprinklers are covering properly (use catch cups to check). New lawns will need more water than mature lawns until the root system is established, so they will need to be watered twice a day in cooler weather and at least 3 times a day during the heat of summer. Remember, the soil moisture content is the key.
• A sure sign of lack of water is when the lawn starts to turn a bluey colour, the leaves start to fold up (like a book), and then the ends become crispy. The leaves will quickly turn brown after that. 
• If all sprinklers are working, open up the soil to a depth of 150 mm (6 inches) with a garden fork or spade, so that you can see & feel the soil. You will be able to see whether the soil is moist or dry and crumbling – compare with an area where the lawn is healthy & lush.
• Black beetles are blamed for a lot of dry spots, however they usually only damage an already weakened lawn. The larvae eat the lawn roots, starving the lawn of nutrients. To check whether you have an infestation (more than 20 beetles per m2), flood the affected area with a hose and any beetles in the soil will come to the surface.          
• For more information on dry patches click on the link.                         Watering
• Watering should always be done early in the morning, at sunrise, never in the evening after sunset. Night watering is wasteful as lawns tend to go dormant and do not take up the water. Night watering also promotes fungal problems, such as Spring Dead Spot and Dollar Spot, as it increases humidity which is ideal for fungal growth.
• Water once per day on your designated watering days for between 15 – 20 minutes per station, depending on water pressure and sprinkler configuration. Remember, gear drive and rotator type sprinklers need to be left on for a lot longer, some up to 45 minutes per station, before they deliver the same amount of water as conventional popups. Sub surface irrigation also requires a different watering time – you should check with the distributors of these products for the recommended watering times.

Wetting Agents

• We recommend the REGULAR use of soil wetting agents (liquid or granular) to allow water to penetrate the surface; otherwise it will run off and be wasted. Wetting agents also help trap water in the root zone, as it often runs straight through our sandy soils.
• Wetting agents do break down, so should be re-applied 3-4 times over spring and summer, particularly in our sandy, hydrophobic soils. It may be necessary to apply wetting agent 2-3 times over a 4-6 week period initially to treat very dry soils.
• Wetting agent should be watered in well for best effect – it froths up when hosed in, which indicates that it has become soluble.

Alkalinity

• A lot of Perth’s soils tend towards alkalinity, particularly in coastal areas or where there are high concentrations of limestone. Buffalo lawns will tolerate alkaline conditions; however they do reach a point where growth becomes inhibited. You can use a pool tester kit to check pH – mix some soil in distilled water and carry out a simple test. Once again, a fertiliser supplemented by iron and manganese will help correct the pH level (Knights Special Mix)

 

 

To view our brochure on Lawn Care, please click here.
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