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Preparation & Laying Guide

 
Measuring up
 

To accurately calculate how much turf to order, start by drawing a diagram of the area and measuring the dimensions.
For irregularly shaped areas, divide into combinations of rectangles, triangles or circles, if applicable.
Calculate the area of each shape in square metres then add the amounts together to determine the total area.
Order an additional 1 – 2% to be on the safe side, and schedule delivery, or pick up,  for when soil conditioning and leveling are completed

 
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Soil Conditioning

 

Spraying

It is recommended that the area to be laid is sprayed with Glyphosate to remove all weeds.
Be sure to use correct protective gear when spraying and leave for a minimum of 7, preferably 14, days prior to laying turf.

 

 

 

On most occasions it is not necessary to improve the soil. If you feel you would like to go the added expense and effort you can try and improve the soil in the following ways.

When incorporating extra soil or soil amendments it is important that landscape mixes are not applied as a layer on top of the existing soil but incorporated into the top 200mm of the soil profile. If this is not done you will find that the turf will have a root system that will stay in the top layer. This will cause your turf to have very poor drought tolerance and a reduced ability to take up the nutrients that you apply. Layered mixes are a major cause of dry areas in summer's first heat wave, not the beetles.

It is a good idea to apply a wetting agent to the soil and water it in, as all of the work you have done moving the soil around will have worked a lot of the fines in the soil to the surface and dried out the soil making it hydrophobic or anti wetting, causing the water to pool and run through the sub surface, by passing the roots.

You can spread some Dynamic Lifter or Organic 2000(a slow release organic fertiliser) at a rate of 20kg per 100sqm to aid in conditioning the soil.

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Levelling

This is when reticulation is installed or an existing system checked for accuracy of coverage and pressure. The sprinkler heads should be positioned about 20mm above the surface of the soil to allow for the height of the lawn.

The area should be raked clean of any rocks and debris then smoothed (preferably screeded) to desired levels. Remember the less lumps and bumps in the surface now, will result in a better finish once the turf goes down.

The level of the prepared surface should be 25 - 30mm below kerbs, pavers etc. for roll down lawn, 10mm for stolons. Plasterer’s sand is a very good, economic filler that will not cause a layering effect or inhibit water penetration.

The area needs to be consolidated so that you can walk across it and not leave imprints with your feet. This can be achieved using a roller or by applying water to the area.

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Laying your turf

If your roll on turf arrives wrapped in plastic wrap it is important to remove this as soon as possible, otherwise it will cause the turf to start decomposing and generating heat, which will turn the leaf yellow. If you cannot lay your turf straightaway you must ensure it is placed in a shaded spot and that the rolls are watered regularly.

The first step in laying instant turf is to do a border of turf all around the outside like a header. You then find your longest run of straight ground and start here, working towards the outside edges in a brick like pattern. A serrated knife or saw is best to trim around sprinklers. Finally make sure you butt all the edges and ends up close to each other as you go, this will give you a smoother surface and help stop edges drying out.

It is important to keep a watch on the condition of the turf that has already been laid, as it may start to dry out. If this happens you will notice a blue tinge on the leaves and you will need to water the turf to prevent it going into stress and slowing the establishment process. A light sanding between the edges of turf after the turf is laid will help prevent them drying out especially when laying turf in temperatures over 30 degrees.

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Fertilising

At this stage people think of applying fertiliser, this is commendable but totally unnecessary. The roll on turf or stolons that you are about to plant do not have a root system and in most cases will not develop a root system capable of taking up nutrients for a couple of weeks. Dynamic Lifter or Organic 2000 can be beneficial at this stage.

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Watering

Watering of your new turf is critical in the first few weeks. As the turf has no root system, it is relying on the water available within the turf layer. Depending on the weather you will need to water your turf at least two to three times per day.

Once your lawn has been installed contact the Water Corporation to receive a watering exemption on the following numbers:
Water Corporation Customer Centre: 9423 7777 or Waterwise Hotline: 131 039. This exemption will allow you to water your new lawn 3 times a day at 3.5mm for the first week and less each following week for up to an 8 week period. Placing a measuring cup under a sprinkler will measure the length of time needed to water at 3.5mm (approx 10 min each time).

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Establishment

Once the roots are down and you can no longer easily lift up a corner of turf you are well on your way to having an established Sir Walter Premium Lawn Turf that will provide yourself and your family with a lot of enjoyment.

See Lawn Care and Maintenance for mowing, fertilising and watering established turf.

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Contact Details
22 Rousset Road Jandabup, Western Australia
Phone 08 9306 1788
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